He is by Steinman’s “Don” and out of Joyce Elliot’s “Dot”. I’ve been trying to buy a pup sired by Don for a couple of years and this one just seem to “fall into place”. Besides how could I resist since he looks like Gear did as a pup :@). I figure that was a “good a reason as any” to get a new pup.

Click

VIDEO  of him working at 6 months old. I very seldom start pups before 8 or 9 months old but he’s so driven to work that I thought I better get a “head start”.

Judge: Mike Burks

 Running Order

Slam Bam Thank Ewe Trial
Sunday, May 19

Handlers meeting 7:45 AM

First dog 8:00 AM
Running Order:
Pro Novice

1. Carol Narr
2. Bob Schooly
3. Sally Douglas
4. Lisa Steg
5. Joan Cudd
6. Mandy Schaftel
7. Pam Peery
8. Beth Benz
9. Joy Thayer
10. Sharon Roman
11. Janet Elliott
12. Joan Cudd
13. Sally Douglas
14. Carolyn Earle
15. Carol Narr
16. Lisa Steg
17. Amelia Smith
18. Joy Thayer

Open Non Compete

1. Gail Hromadko
2. Sally Douglas
3. Nina Fox
4. Pam Peery
5. Joy Thayer
6. Terry Folsom
7. Diane Lewis
8. Sally Douglas
9. Amelia Smith
10. Debbie Sote
11. Joy Thayer

Novice

1. Gail Hromadko (NC)
2. Jaime Mendez
3. Marla Corey
4. Reagan Thayer

SORRY all the pups below are sold. I won’t be breeding again until sometime summer or fall 2013.

Click BRITE  for her info.

Click CRAIG  for his info.

7/17 UPDATE: (Boys first and last pictures).

7/1 pup update:

Girls :@)

Boys :@)

CLICK ON TO ENLARGE:

 

Click here for pedigree:

Fully trained open dog for sale to the right home only. Has points toward the 2012 finals.

He’s a smooth coated B/W just turned 4 year old male. He has a big heart and huge engine. He has absolutely no trouble moving range ewes and there is just no quit in him. Very forward but with good flanks and outruns. Good at shedding and great at penning.

Easy to push out or pull in on either flanks or outruns. Drives any distance and easy to get to take off balance flanks. He has different speed/distance flanks but always needs slowing down on walk ups. Works large bunches easily.

He does take handling and would not be suited for a novice handler.

For more information email abcollies @ yahoo. com (remove spaces).

Through research teachers discovered that students have different “learning styles” (visual, auditory or touch).

I think one of the things that will make you a good trainer is understanding that dogs are not dissimilar. So, keep in mind it’s not only some learn quicker than others but also they need different methods in order to learn. Adjusting your training to HOW a dog learns will help you get the best out of him.

Some need structure and repetition to achieve their full potential. Often these dogs have a little too much chase or not enough eye to hold them off their sheep. Repetition creates a pattern which will allow them to develop a working method.

For instance: they may have talent but might not a “built it - guidance system” that tells them how far they need to be off their sheep to accomplish what you two are working on. This doesn’t mean they won’t mature into a good dog – but at this juncture of their training a “piece” is missing and it’s your job to develop whats lacking. It’s possible “the piece” is in there – but the dog doesn’t understand how to utilize it. With some dogs tension gets in the way of potential … so your job is to calm the dog down enough to allow him to focus.  Maybe its a “very forward” dog that needs to “tone it down” … or a dog that doesn’t have pace and you need to repeat something enough times until he realizes his life will be easier if he will just do it your way. No matter what the reason it’s a matter of consistently repeating the command MAKING sure he does it correctly EVERY time until its “set in stone”. This allows the dog to work his stock in the best way possible for him.

A different dog may need to grasp the concept of “the job” to be able to move forward. They might be hesitant to try something because they truly don’t understand what you are trying to accomplish or where they “fit” into that picture. Often it’s the ones that are trying to control the stock from a distance  that need be taught the concept (example: pushing harder on their sheep) before they become proficient at the task. So  repetition will NOT work for this type … because just repeating a pattern does not let him grasp the reason behind the action. It’s your job to come up with a way to communicate the reason you need it done a certain way. These dogs will learn a LOT about “the work” from the sheep … IF you have the correct sheep (meaning NOT dog broke sheep that run to you just because a dog moves).

So, novice trainers what ever his “learning style” its your job as a trainer to read each dog and explore how to bring out the best in them. I personally think that’s a lot of the enjoyment of training these dogs … makes you keep your “thinking cap” on.

34650 Olive Ave, Winchester, CA 92596

May 19, 2013

Farm Flock – limited entry

Entries open April 9th - Close May 10th 2013

     Judge: Mike Burks

Nursery (Sanctioned) $33                Pro-Novice $30               Novice $25                   Non-compete Open $30

One run per dog. First place winner (in each class) gets one free additional run.

Checks payable to: Candy Kennedy

Send entries to:

Jan Heermann
27924 Oregano Circle
Santa Clarita, CA 91350

Email:

E N T R Y  F O R M (also a PDF form at the bottom of the page).

Dog name                                                                  Class                                                                        Fee

1. ________________________     _________________________                          _________
2.________________________      _________________________                          _________
3. ________________________     _________________________                          _________
4. ________________________     _________________________                           _________

Total      ____________

By signing the entry below, I agree to pay for all damages caused by any dog under my control while at this trial. I also agree that Candy Kennedy and the Trial Committee, shall not be held liable for any damage to me or any dog under my control while at this trial. I agree to pay damages/replacement cost of $150 per head and/or veterinarian costs for any damage to livestock or property caused by me or my dog(s).
OWNER/HANDLER (Please print LEGIBLY and then sign)
NAME________________________________________________________________
Address__________________________________ City______________zip______________
Phone and Email __________________________________________________
DATE___________________________________

Click HERE for PDF entry form:

TECH: is working on learning what “out” means. When I flank him and he looks in I give him an “out” and insist that he turn his head away from the sheep. This will come in “to play” when we start working on outruns but for now it’s “up close and personal” so I can communicate to him what I’m asking and make sure he follows through … each and every time.

He doesn’t like lying down and I don’t make him (he’s a long-legged guy and watching him lie down is a little like watching a giraffe try to lie down) BUT I do make him completely STOP (on his feet) without any forward movement when I say lie down. This “lie down” is not a flexible one … it means NO forward movement (standing tends to encourage more forward than when they are “flat” on the ground). If I don’t need a total stop I use stand (and I’m a lot more flexible with the stand).

With him … corrections have to be VERY firm to get through to him … slap your hat on your leg and his reaction is … I’m a little busy right now can I get back to you on that one :@) BUT he’s the one that when he perceives you are angry would “think” about quitting. So, once I get though to him and he realizes he’s being corrected … I have to back off  (verbally and physically) FAST.  However, getting through to him is much more difficult than Gear. He’s not really “hard headed” just independent and more focused on the sheep than me.

GEAR: Working on lining out on both the fetch and drive (more so on the drive). I use “there-there-steady” on the fetch and then if he tries to flank instead of walk on straight … I make him stand. This stops him from trying to overreact to his every perceived movement from his sheep. He’s very reactionary which can be good if “harnessed” but cause problems if I allow it to “take over”. He will cover a breaking sheep before I can say a word … but he can also cause a sheep to break by trying to hard.

On the drive I use the fence to keep him walking straight instead of letting him push by flanking. This really seems to help him understand that he doesn’t need to go “sideways” to make the sheep to go forward. An issue that happens with the fence is he tends to over-flank and head them – so I have to “fall back” to making him stand. I try and work all my dogs “free flowing” (with very little stopping) but to “get there” they need to understand that: yes, you can just keep things moving until you do something incorrectly.

Also, early on I take 50 (or so) sheep out to the middle of the pasture and make a HUGE hole and teach them to come through to me. Gear is already learning to work at holding them apart. Keeping them apart is helping him understand driving … “just so happens” this seems to make more sense to him. However, with a lot of pups they just get confused when trying to drive that way  — so I will just lie them down (between the two groups of sheep) and walk around and have him fetch to me. Then I go work that group. This will make dog broke sheep less likely to come to me (as they are drawn toward the big bunch). So the dog has to learn to hold and push sheep (instead of just follow sheep).

A correction for Gear is HEY … anything more and the ears are “pinned” back and he is backed off too much. He’s not soft … he just wants to be right and doesn’t like to be in trouble. I enjoy this about him as it means he’s connected and wants me in the picture.

I’m also working on both of them having them learn to “pen sort” (meaning I use a gate to let only the sheep I want in) … both are pushy and having a difficult time learning patience (totally understand … not one of my strong suits :@) and I MUCH prefer that with young dogs than “get up – get up”.

BUT most of all I’m allowing them to learn about sheep. That every move they make causes a reaction in their sheep and that they are responsible for their actions. If they cause a mess – they have to clean it up (with corrections from me). The best teachers are sheep (that is …. if you are using sheep that aren’t “dead dog broke”).

  I’m working two young dogs

and even though they are half-brothers — They couldn’t be more different if they tried. Both are talented and totally enjoyable to work but so very different – in personality and working style. I have to remind myself to change my method and attitude with each of them. If I tried to work them both the same – neither would progress as they should.

TECH:

One is a big, long legged, easy going male. He tends to be independent with a mind of his own. When we go to the sheep he’s always trying to get to them before I send him. When called off he runs a distance and turns trying to get back to the sheep. But, at the same time he can be soft with a touch of “quit” about him if corrections get tough. A bit of a dichotomy to “blend” those two “issues” together when it comes to training.

He is all forward with very little flank about him. He will take 50 sheep and just drive them straight without flanking. He has so much forward he can split his sheep if not slowed down. However, he has enough feel that he will “rock back” if the sheep do split as he does have a desire to keep sheep together. He doesn’t have a lot of eye or pace … so I will have to work on “holding him back” trying to “install” pace. I won’t have a worry about him not pushing through “the bubble”.

I do love his forward but need to start putting some “sideways” in him. So flanks will be the number one thing I will work on with him. Driving and pushing will come naturally to him.

However, I will intermingle the things he’s good at (forward) with the things he’s not (flanks) to keep his attitude right … while putting “clean flanks” making sure I keep him happy and motivated.

GEAR:

The second one is small, quick, sharp and reactive. He is extremely biddable and tries everything he can stay out of trouble. He simply does not like to be wrong.  When we walk to the sheep he stays close to me waiting for me to send him. When called off he doesn’t run off but stays close to me. He can be sensitive and submissive to correction but luckily he needs very little being such a good listener. An easier combination to work with than the other pup.

He has great flanks, outruns and uncanny feel for sheep. He has plenty of pace and decent push on the fetch. However, he is lacking that forward on the drive. Some of that is lacking confidence “in the task” but some is his “bubble distance”  – he doesn’t like to push through. When he actually pushes past this comfort zone … the tension comes out. So, instead of pushing on steadily he tends to do it in “spurts”. He’s a bit “wound” like a rubber band too tight that breaks and shoots forward.

So, I will put sheep up against the fence and teach him to keep walking closer and closer to his sheep … helping him to stay relaxed and calm while he pushing through his bubble.

I’m going to have to watch myself with him as he is one that excels at “guiding” sheep from a lot further back than I am comfortable with. So, I need to adjust my comfort zone to fit him not the other way around. If I try to MAKE him push on when he truly doesn’t NEED to – I will be taking away one of his most valuable assets. However, he will need to learn “push” as well as “feel” – so I need to “slip” in more forward without losing his distance feel.

The best thing about these pups is they are both very enjoyable to train. This makes you go out of your way to find time for them. It’s harder to train when you don’t enjoy the “clay” you have to work with.